The Princess Cut Lab-Grown Diamond: Sharp Modern Geometry

The Modern Square

The princess cut is the most popular square-shaped diamond and the second most popular diamond shape overall (after round brilliant). Created in the 1960s, it combines the clean, geometric appeal of a square outline with brilliant-cut faceting that delivers fire and sparkle rivaling the round brilliant. For those who love the idea of a square diamond but don't want to sacrifice brilliance, the princess cut is the answer.

How the Princess Cut Differs

The princess cut occupies a unique position among diamond shapes:

vs Round Brilliant: Princess cuts have a square outline (modern, geometric) versus the round's circular outline (traditional). The princess has a lower yield from rough diamond (meaning more material is removed during cutting), but the result is a distinctly contemporary shape
vs Emerald Cut: Both are rectangular/square, but the princess uses brilliant-cut faceting (many small, sparkly reflections) while the emerald uses step-cut faceting (fewer, broader reflections). If you want square with sparkle, choose princess; square with sophistication, choose emerald
vs Cushion Cut: The princess has sharp 90-degree corners while the cushion has softly rounded corners. Princess is more geometric and modern; cushion is more romantic and vintage
vs Radiant Cut: Very similar in faceting, but the radiant has chamfered (trimmed) corners while the princess has pointed corners. Radiant is more durable at the corners; princess is more purely geometric

The Corner Question

The princess cut's defining feature — its sharp 90-degree corners — is also its primary vulnerability. Sharp corners are the thinnest parts of the diamond, making them susceptible to chipping from impact. This is the single most important practical consideration:

V-prongs: Essential for princess cuts. V-shaped metal prongs cradle each corner, protecting the vulnerable tips from impact while maintaining the geometric outline
Bezel setting: A metal rim around the entire diamond provides maximum corner protection. Some bezel designs frame only the corners while leaving the sides open for light entry
Channel setting: For princess-cut eternity bands and side stones, channel settings protect all four corners within the metal walls

Choosing the Right Princess Cut

Square vs Rectangular

Recommended Pieces

Princess cuts are available in both proportions:

Square (1.00-1.05 ratio): The classic princess proportion. Bold, geometric, makes a strong visual statement
Slightly rectangular (1.05-1.10): May happen naturally based on the rough diamond's shape. Can be slightly less expensive and still appear square to the casual observer

4Cs for Princess Cuts

Cut: GIA doesn't grade fancy shape cuts, but look for excellent symmetry and balanced proportions. Depth of 64-75% and table of 67-72% are typical ranges
Color: Princess cuts can show color in the corners. G-H for white metals, H-I for warm metals. Check that corners don't appear noticeably warmer than the center
Clarity: VS2 is typically eye-clean. The brilliant faceting does a good job masking inclusions. Avoid inclusions near the corners — they can create structural weakness in an already vulnerable area
Carat: Princess cuts measure smaller face-up than rounds of the same weight because more weight is carried in the pavilion. Consider going slightly larger to achieve the visual presence you want

Settings That Showcase the Princess Cut

Solitaire with V-prongs: The clean, geometric stone on a slim band — modern minimalism at its finest. V-prongs at all four corners are essential
Halo: A halo of round diamonds around the square center creates beautiful contrast between geometric center and circular halo
Three-stone: Princess center with trapezoid or smaller princess side stones creates a unified geometric composition
Invisible setting: Multiple princess cuts set corner-to-corner with no visible metal between them, creating a continuous field of diamond. This setting technique was practically invented for the princess cut