Pear & Marquise Cut Lab-Grown Diamonds: Complete Shape Guide
Pear and marquise cuts represent the most dramatic, finger-flattering shapes in the lab-grown diamond world. Both feature pointed ends and elongated silhouettes that create maximum visual impact per carat — and both offer a distinctly unique aesthetic that sets them apart from more conventional shapes.
The Pear Shape: A Drop of Brilliance
The pear cut (also called teardrop) combines a rounded end with a single pointed end, creating an asymmetric shape that's been prized since its invention in 1475 by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem. It offers the brilliant sparkle of a round combined with the elongated presence of a marquise.
Ideal Pear Proportions
| Parameter | Ideal | Acceptable |
|---|---|---|
| L/W Ratio | 1.45-1.65 | 1.35-1.75 |
| Depth % | 58-62% | 56-66% |
| Table % | 54-62% | 52-65% |
| Symmetry | Excellent | Very Good |
Pear Shape Symmetry
Symmetry is absolutely critical in pear cuts — more than almost any other shape. The point must align exactly with the center of the rounded end. The two curved shoulders must mirror each other perfectly. Even a slight asymmetry is immediately visible and cannot be hidden by sparkle.
When evaluating a pear diamond, draw an imaginary line from the point through the center to the middle of the rounded end. The stone should be perfectly symmetrical on either side of this line.
The Pear Bow-Tie
Like ovals, pears display a bow-tie shadow across their center. In pears, this tends to concentrate near the junction where the curve transitions to the pointed end. A minimal bow-tie actually adds depth and character; a severe one detracts from beauty.
Best Pear Settings
- V-prong at point + prongs at shoulders: Protects the vulnerable tip while securing the body
- Halo: A pear-shaped halo creates a dramatic teardrop frame of brilliance
- Bezel: Maximum protection for the delicate point
- Pendant: Pear shapes make stunning pendant necklaces — the point naturally draws the eye downward
Wearing Direction
Pear cut rings can be worn with the point facing the fingertip (most common — creates finger-elongating effect) or toward the wrist (less common but equally valid). There's no "correct" direction — it's personal preference.
The Marquise Shape: Maximum Drama
Legend says the marquise was commissioned by King Louis XV of France to mimic the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Its two pointed ends and wide center create the longest face-up measurement of any diamond shape at a given carat weight — making it the champion of visual impact per carat. See our visual size guide.
Ideal Marquise Proportions
| Parameter | Ideal | Acceptable |
|---|---|---|
| L/W Ratio | 1.85-2.10 | 1.75-2.25 |
| Depth % | 58-62% | 56-66% |
| Table % | 53-63% | 51-66% |
| Symmetry | Excellent | Very Good |
Marquise Symmetry: Non-Negotiable
Even more than the pear, marquise symmetry must be flawless. With two pointed ends and two curved sides, there are four elements that must mirror each other perfectly. An asymmetric marquise looks immediately "wrong" — there's no sparkle pattern complex enough to mask it.
Check: both points must align on the same axis, both wings must be identical in curvature, and the widest point must be centered.
The Marquise Bow-Tie
Marquise diamonds display the most pronounced bow-tie effect of any shape. The long, narrow center naturally creates areas where light leaks rather than reflects. Excellent cutting minimizes this to a subtle shadow, but it's always present to some degree.
Best Marquise Settings
- V-prongs at both points: Essential protection for both delicate tips
- Six-prong: V-prongs at points plus prongs at shoulders and belly — maximum security
- East-West setting: The marquise set horizontally creates a bold, fashion-forward look
- Three-stone side stones: Marquise side stones flanking a round or oval center create elegant wing effects
- Bezel: Protects both vulnerable points while accentuating the boat shape
Pear vs. Marquise: Choosing Between Them
| Factor | Pear | Marquise |
|---|---|---|
| Points | 1 (rounded opposite end) | 2 (both ends pointed) |
| Face-Up Size | Large | Largest of all shapes |
| Finger Elongation | Very good | Maximum |
| Versatility | Rings, pendants, earrings | Primarily rings |
| Bow-Tie Severity | Moderate | More pronounced |
| Vulnerability | 1 point to protect | 2 points to protect |
| Modern Popularity | Very high and rising | Niche but distinctive |
Quality Recommendations for Both Shapes
Color
Both shapes can concentrate color at their points:
- White metal: D-G recommended
- Warm metal: G-I works well — see metal guide
Clarity
The brilliant faceting of both shapes helps mask inclusions:
- VS2: The sweet spot for both shapes — eye-clean and excellent value
- SI1: Often acceptable — check that inclusions aren't near the points (weaker areas)
Certification
Since neither shape receives a standardized cut grade from most labs, detailed certification with full proportions is essential for evaluating quality.
Recommended Pieces
- 14K White Gold 2 1/2Ct Princess/Pear Ladies Ring
- Eternal Blush Collection Ladies Pendant 1 1/4Ct Round/Pink
- Eternal Blush Collection Ladies Earrings 3 3/4Ct Round/Pear
Browse our pear cut and marquise cut collections to discover these dramatic, finger-flattering lab-grown diamond shapes.