A Century of Geometric Beauty
Created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, the Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with distinctly cropped corners that give it an almost octagonal appearance. It rose to prominence during the Art Deco era (1920s-1930s), a period defined by geometric forms, architectural precision, and bold design — qualities that the Asscher cut embodies perfectly.
Asscher vs Emerald Cut
The Asscher and emerald cut share the same step-cut faceting, but there are key differences:
- Shape: Asscher is square (L/W ratio 1.00-1.05), emerald is rectangular (1.30-1.50)
- Corners: Asscher has wider, more dramatic corner cuts, creating a more distinctly octagonal appearance
- Depth: Asscher cuts are typically cut deeper, creating a more pronounced "hall of mirrors" effect when viewed face-up
- Concentric pattern: Looking into an Asscher cut from above reveals a mesmerizing pattern of concentric squares, like looking down into an infinite well. This hypnotic depth is the Asscher's signature optical feature
The Mesmerizing Optical Effect
The Asscher cut's deep pavilion and large step facets create what gemologists call an "infinite hallway" or "windmill" pattern — a series of progressively smaller squares nested within each other, drawing the eye inward. This optical depth is unlike any other diamond shape and is best appreciated by holding the diamond under a single light source and looking directly into the table.
This is not the busy, scattered sparkle of a brilliant cut. It's a slower, more deliberate play of broad light and dark panels that shift dramatically as the diamond moves. The effect is meditative, almost hypnotic — and it's why Asscher enthusiasts are among the most passionate diamond collectors.
Quality Requirements
Like the emerald cut, the Asscher's open architecture demands high quality:
Clarity
The large, transparent step facets reveal inclusions readily. VS2 is the minimum recommended grade; VS1 or VVS2 is preferable for those who want absolute visual perfection. With lab-grown diamonds, higher clarity grades are more readily available and accessible, making the Asscher cut a more practical choice.
Color
Broad facets also reveal color more than brilliant cuts. The Asscher's depth can also concentrate color at the bottom of the stone, creating a slightly warmer appearance. Aim for G or higher in white metal settings; H-I in warm metals.
Cut Proportions
Key proportions for an ideal Asscher:
- Table: 60-68%
- Depth: 61-68%
- Length-to-width: 1.00-1.05 (must be square)
- Corner cuts: Should be even and symmetrical, creating a balanced octagonal outline
Settings for Asscher Cuts
- Solitaire: The most popular setting for Asscher cuts. A clean, minimal mount lets the geometric beauty and optical depth speak for themselves. Four prongs at the corners maintain the square outline
- Bezel: A metal rim frames the Asscher's octagonal outline beautifully, creating a sleek, art deco-inspired composition
- Three-stone with baguettes: Tapered baguette side stones echo the Asscher's step-cut language, creating a perfectly balanced geometric trio
- Art Deco vintage: Milgrain detailing, geometric gallery work, and ornate settings honor the era when the Asscher was born
The Royal Asscher Cut
In 2001, the Asscher family created an updated version called the Royal Asscher cut, featuring 74 facets (versus 58 in the original) and a higher crown. The Royal Asscher produces more brilliance than the classic version while maintaining the signature step-cut character. It's patented and available only through authorized dealers.
Who Chooses the Asscher?
Recommended Pieces
- Elegant Ladies 14K Yellow Gold 1/2Ct Round Lab Grown Five
- Eternal Blush Collection Ladies Ring 1 1/2Ct Round/Emerald 14K
- 14K Yellow Gold 1 1/2Ct Round/Pear Ladies Ring
The Asscher cut appeals to a specific sensibility: someone who values depth over dazzle, architecture over sparkle, and design heritage over trending popularity. It's the diamond equivalent of choosing a Bauhaus chair over a mainstream design — both are beautiful, but the Asscher speaks to those with a trained eye and a confident aesthetic point of view.
